The Society of Cosmetic Scientists promotes education, research and collaboration to advance the science of cosmetics

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MULTI-SENSORY BEAUTY

picture of neurons19 APRIL - 3 MAY 2021

THIS IS AN ON DEMAND WEBINAR

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Katerina Steventon
(Independent Skincare Consultancy Ltd)

It feels nice: consumer sensory perspective – insights from the clinic 

Synopsis As a clinician, I encounter people’s faces on a daily basis; as a scientist I am in touch with the latest research. Evolutionarily we are wired to read the faces around us looking for signs that code for age, health and fertility, these instincts remain firmly ingrained. As we focus visually, ‘visible’ results are the sought to confirm the benefit of skincare. The product aesthetics are there to guide towards purchase and increase compliance to guarantee benefits. Due to modern brain research techniques, only now have we gained a better understanding of the skin-brain connection that suggests there is more to aesthetics than meets the eye. Skincare touches all our senses and research on aspects of ‘multi-sensory enriched environment’ provides interesting early insights. Science has yet to fully embrace the empirical and intuitive experience that a clinician shares daily i.e. imparting years of expertise by diagnosing skin type, daily paradigms and predisposition to ageing, introducing a state of mindful relaxation with gentle touch, aromas, music, and exploring how the brain codes multisensory experiences. Digitalisation of personal care brings many advantages but brands that are narrow in their scope miss this dialogue. In the clinic, I work with each person individually to help them appreciate what their face reflects in the mirror and what they portray to others. This connection - with self and others - affects our wellbeing and has been challenged in times of Zoom and isolation during the pandemic.

Francis McGlone
(Liverpool John Moores University, NeuroSci Ltd)

GROOMING IS AS MUCH ABOUT FEELING GOOD AS IT IS LOOKING GOOD

Francis will pose the question 'Why do we groom?’ and provide some evidence-based and some speculative reasons why. A sense of touch is fundamental in order to detect our environment, handle tools etc, and even to know where our body is in space, but we now know that it also serves a second, social/affiliative function that has, over evolutionary time, reached its zenith in human primates. This other property of touch is detected by a recently discovered (in humans) system of gentle touch sensitive nerves in the skin that provide the neurobiological substrate for a touch system that encodes the emotional, pleasant, qualities of skin touch. These nerves – called c-tactile afferents (CT) – are hypothesised to play a fundamental role across the lifespan, from their seminal role in brain development via nurturing touch to all manner of social and affiliative interactions from childhood to old age. Covid has exposed how important this sense of touch is to our mental well-being. Links with grooming behaviours and stress reduction will be discussed.

Tracey Sanderson
(Sensory Dimensions)

The value of sensory in the beauty game

Synopsis Formulators realise the critical role that the sensory experience, particularly texture and fragrance, play in product success.  The ability to describe and measure these critical sensory characteristics of products and ingredients can facilitate reformulation, enhance competitor understanding and unlock the route to successful new product development. This presentation will explore the use of sensory analysis in personal care and packaging development and will also illustrate the potential of new technology to capture and predict the sensory response to personal care products.  We will also look at traditional claims testing and ask if implicit measures based on System 1 thinking can sense check if we are asking the right questions.

Natalie Hutchinson (Surfachem)

FRAGRANT FEELINGS – HOW AUTHENTICITY, EMOTIONAL WELLNESS, INCLUSIVITY AND SOCIETAL CHANGES ARE INFLUENCING PRODUCT DESIGN, AND HOW FRAGRANCE IS KEY TO ALL OF THESE MESSAGES

Synopsis Moving forwards, beauty and consumer products and their brands will be more and more influenced by Emotional Design. As a society, we are now, more than ever, so much more in touch with our moods and emotions, with mental wellness being a top priority. We are becoming more connected to products, services and experiences that are inspired and designed around how they make people feel. In a time of continuous change, societal tension and constant digital connectivity we are experiencing feelings of anxiety and loneliness. Consumers are looking for a more immersive experience and want to get back in touch with emotions and self-care routines, as well as wanting brands that foster an inclusive stance and true authenticity. Fragrance and the sense of smell is key in product development catering for this emotive market. When we take in a smell, this goes up to our olfactory receptors, that are directly connected to the limbic system, the most ancient and primitive part of the brain, which is thought to be the seat of emotion. Let’s take a tour, looking at brand inspiration, cross-category representation and some solid insights, and explore how we can bring this all to life for product development.

BIOGRAPHIES

picture of Katerina Steventon

Dr Katerina Steventon is a skincare specialist with substantial experience of working at the clinical, commercial and research interface. She holds an MSc in Clinical Biochemistry, a PhD in Transdermal Absorptions and has over 20 years of global work experience in the personal care and wound care industry. Katerina has an in depth knowledge of skin biology in both its healthy and diseased states. Her strengths are a comprehensive understanding of the industry and academia, commercialisation of research in a spectrum of healthcare areas, experience of running an innovation consultancy (with a focus on functional skincare) and a private clinical practice (focused on personalisation, anti-ageing, sensitive skin, acne and touch as a therapeutic modality).

picture of Francis McGlone Francis McGlone is Professor in Neuroscience at Liverpool John Moores University & Visiting Professor, Liverpool University, UK. He is Co-Director of the Somatosensory & Affective Neuroscience Lab at the School of Natural Sciences & Psychology. He has a long-term interest in the function of the different classes of afferent c-fibres innervating human skin – those that code for pain, itch (for which an IgNobel prize was awarded) and ‘pleasure’ – at both peripheral and central levels. Techniques used in this research span single unit recordings with microneurography, psychophysical measurements, functional neuroimaging, behavioural measures and psychopharmacological approaches to investigate the role of the brain transmitter serotonin in affiliative and social touch. He is also co-director of the International Association for the Study of Affective Touch (IASAT) https://iasat.org

picture of Tracey Sanderson

Tracey Sanderson (BSc, CSci, RSensSci) is Managing Director at Sensory Dimensions where she has worked since 2010. In her role she supports clients across the food, personal care, home and healthcare sectors to create successful products and packaging and maximise competitive advantage. Prior to Sensory Dimensions, Tracey worked at the University of Reading as a business advisor to the Life Sciences sector, and before that in Sensory and Consumer Science with RSSL/Cadbury and Leatherhead Food Research.  

picture of Natalie Hutchinson Natalie Hutchinson studied Business Management at the University of Sheffield before starting her career at Earthoil, a subsidiary of Treatt plc at the time, which is where she found her ‘nose’ in fragrance raw materials. She had responsibilities for the UK and Northern Europe. She decided to make a move to work solely in consumer fragrances with Seven Scent (fragrance house of PZ Cussons), where she grew the commercial arm of the fragrance business, building a strategy and selling outside of the PZ Cussons group. She began to work closely with UK brands and retailers alike, whilst also gaining a footprint of sales into Europe, Asia and Africa and learning the complexities of cultural difference in fragrance selection, regularly travelling globally. With her international experience, she then made the move to Walgreens Boots Alliance to head up the International Retailer Own Brand team, before moving back to her passion in fragrance, to one of the global top 4 fragrance houses, Symrise. At Symrise, her role was to grow the UK market for the German headquartered company. She worked closely with perfumers in both Germany and Paris to deliver customer-centric fragrances. In her current position, representing the largest fragrance house in the world, as Fragrance Manager for Givaudan at Surfachem, she works closely with the Givaudan team to deliver prescriptive, emotive and technical solutions in fragrance to the Surfachem customer base. When not in direct conversation with customers, you can often find Natalie working on really visual market trend presentations to inspire the next NPD ideas for Surfachem customers, briefing the perfumers on the newest Surfachem trend or being ‘the nose’ and evaluating customer fragrance submissions!


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